Frequently Asked Questions
HOW DOES AUTO A/C WORK ?
Heated air is forced across a cold evaporator and is transferred to the refrigerant gas, making the air less hot. The refrigerant carries the heat away from the evaporator to the compressor. The refrigerant is super heated by compression and is forced through the condenser where cooler outside air takes the heat from the refrigerant. Its next stop is the expansion device (TXV or CCOT) which meters refrigerant into the evaporator and we start over again. SIMPLE ISN'T IT !
Why Replace the Receiver-Drier?
The receiver-drier must be changed each time a system is empty regardless of the reason for loss of refrigerant. It should also be changed every three years, because the desiccant pellets will break down and clog the expansion valve. This will in turn cause the system to become inoperable and May damage the compressor.
The receiver-drier is strictly a disposable item and is thought of in the same terms as a fuel, oil, or air filter. In fact, if any component fails or is replaced for any reason, the receiver-drier must also be replaced to prevent corrosion and moisture in the system.
The receiver-drier performs three functions:
-It filters the system of non-condensables.
-It receives the liquid refrigerant and maintains a certain level of liquid at the bottom at all times in a properly charged system.
-It contains a stack of pellets called desiccant (drying agent) to trap and absorb moisture. NOTE that moisture is the most harmful enemy of the air conditioning system. If any moisture is in the system, it will combine with the refrigerant to form hydrochloric acid which is extremely corrosive to metal components.
Replacing the receiver-drier is essential when servicing the A/C system. Whenever you replace a component of the A/C system you must also replace the receiver-drier. If you do not change the receiver-drier there could be serious damage to the other parts of the system, which could be very costly. You must also have proof of changing the receiver-drier in order to receive a compressor warranty.
WHY INSIST ON FLUSHING
There is no way to know how much oil is in a system
(1) Flushing eliminates excess oil from previous services. You do not want to add another full charge of oil when replacing a compressor and adding oil to the system.
(2) Sludge and debris, left in the system, clogs the orifice tube/expansion valve and can damage the valves in a compressor.
Q: Are Your Air Conditioning Parts Brand New?
A: We offer remanufactured (not just Refurbished) and new Air Conditioning compressors and clutches (all our other AC parts are typically brand new). You can find the part type (remanufactured versus new) on the product detail page.
Q: Can You Provide General Information On Auto Air Conditioning?
A: General information about auto air conditioning:
Q: Do You Provide Any AC Installation Guide?
A: Working on any system you must make sure you do the following:
1.Replace accumulator/receiver drier. Contaminants accumulate here and you must replace these items. The desiccant bag in these components once opened will absorbed to much moisture and not work properly.
2.Replace orifice tube or check expansion valve for contamination.
3.The A/C system must be flushed or an inline filter must be installed. Flushing must include condenser and evaporator. IMPORTANT-Compressors contaminated with black oil or any foreign material will not be warranted.
4.When replacing a Ford built FX15 or FS10 or General Motors V5 compressor that has suffered a catastrophic failure, the condenser must be replaced. If the discharge hose assembly is equipped with a muffler, the hose assembly Must be replaced. This is due to the Teflon being disbursed throughout the system. (Black Death) When this happens the only way to get the Teflon out of your system is to replace the item. The Teflon only liquefies once it is heated and therefore you can not flush it out of the system.
5.The proper amount and type of lubricant for the system must be added. After installation, rotate the compressor shaft to ensure no liquid remains in the cylinders. This will lubricate all internal compressor components.
6.Charge the system with the proper amount and type refrigerant. Do not charge the system with pure liquid (R12 or R134a) this could cause the reeds in the compressor to break.
Q: How can I ensure effective operation and performance of the AC?
A: The following steps are highly recommended to ensure effective operation and performance:
1. Check operation of engine-driven fan clutch or electric radiator and condenser fan motor.
2. Check operation of clutch cycling switch or relay and all safety switches.
3. Check for proper operation of cooling system.
4. Check the external condition of the condenser (bent fins, road debris and leaks).
5. Check all drive belts and pulleys for alignment and wear.
6. Inspect Schrader valves and sealing caps. If retrofitting, install proper retrofit fittings.
7. Inspect all hoses and fittings for leaks and repair as necessary.
8. Evacuate system to 29.5 in. HG for 2-4 hours. The system must hold the vacuum before charging.
9. After charging the system, leak test and performance test the system.
10. It is always good to add the proper dye to the system incase you system develops a leak.
11. Check for proper operation of you heater control valve. A faulty valve will allow heat into you cab and will not let the evaporator work properly.
12. Check for proper operation of your fan clutch. If the fan clutch is not working properly your system will not cool down and thus your head pressure will be too high. This will cause the system not to work correctly and premature death of your compressor.
Q: How do you find A/C refrigerant leaks?
A: Two methods are commonly used. Dye and electronic. Dye is most popular but can take several days to appear. Many components are not visible so, the dye can often not be seen. Often shops charge for refrigerant and Dye and tell you to come back in a few days. This works but costs you time and more money for refrigerant. Electronic detectors are quicker to pinpoint leaks and minimize the loss of refrigerant.
Q: Is It Correct that 134A will not cool as well as R-12?
A: Thousands of cars and trucks have been converted. Feedback has been extremely positive. Slightly longer cool down times have been the only differences noticed by some customers. Some vehicles should not ever be converted. If you car or truck has a copper plate and fine condenser and evaporator we would suggest that either you switch out these components to a higher efficient model or return back with R12 into the system.
Q: My compressor leaks - must it be replaced?
A: Not always. If a compressor w/low miles leaks, quite often it can be repaired.
Q: What Does A Warranty Cover?
A: 1-Year Warranty (parts only) except for Compressors. Compressor Warranty must have a proof of purchase of new dryer / accumulator. Note: 99% of all factory defects occur within the first ninety days of installation
Q: What Is The Model Number Of My AC Compressor?
A: The manufacturer name and the model number of your AC compressor can be found on the label of the compressor. Before purchasing an AC compressor, please match the model number with the compressor you want to purchase.
Q: What Is a Return And Shipping Policy
A: Returns May be subject to a 30% restocking charge plus shipping. Only returns submitted within 10 days from date of invoice May be returned. No returns without prior authorization from the Supplier (see Contact Us page). Online orders May be cancelled prior to shipping without any charges.
Q: What does it cost to retrofit my car to 134A?
A: There is no set price for every car. On major repairs, such as compressor replacements, it can be less expensive to convert vs. recharging with R-12. Your primary concern should be to find out exactly what has failed on your system.
RETROFIT - NOW OR LATER?
Currently, there is no law or regulation stating that a vehicle must be converted to refrigerant R134a. However, the R12 supply is running out, so if a major repair is required on a R12 system it is in the customers' best interest to convert to the R134a refrigerant.
